Rattray Head wild camp

Fantastic day in Aberdeen at Doors Open Day and then the dilemma.  Can I be bothered to pack the camping gear and head back to the coast?  I decided I should because the weather was forecast to be sunny and warm and possibly the last chance to go wild camping for the summer.  It was also a good excuse to get a good run in my new car!  Having researched the location it seemed that the track was full of potholes so I decided to park at St Mary's Church and walk the final stretch.  Looking north-west was Loch of Strathbeg where lots of swans and geese were congregated.

Loch of Strathbeg

The walk was easy apart from the mad, barking dog at the farmhouse and I passed 2 young men playing golf in the dunes - great for game improvement!  On the way I disturbed a fox on the track - it had not heard me coming and it shot off across the field.  The sun was getting low so I dumped the gear and made a dash for the beach in order to get some shots with the sun on the west side of the lighthouse.

Last rays of the day

By now it was getting quite gloomy so I fitted the neutral density filter, cable release and tripod and managed to get some long exposures without getting my feet wet.

Long exposure in the gloom

After unpacking the bivy bag and sleeping bag (by now it was almost completely dark) I had a final brew of herbal tea on the beach and nearly died of a heart attack as a boxer dog bounded up quickly followed by its owner.  Turns out, as I discovered in the morning, that they were in a camper van back at the car park.

It was amazing how damp things were getting with the dew that settled on the bags but I was treated to an amazing show of stars and the odd satellite before I zipped up for the night.  It really should be on everyone's list of things to do - wild camping under stars.

Bivy spot

After my usual, unsettled sleep I surfaced about 6.15 am to a warm day with lots of low mist blowing from the south.  I just missed some pink clouds as the sun rose but the lighthouse was looking pretty spectacular in the dramatic light.

Sunrise through the mist

I was joined by some seals who seemed to be hunting above the covered rocks and I also discovered that I had been beaten to the early photos by another wild camper who was pitched on top of the dunes further south.  It was amusing to watch lots of Sanderlings chasing insects and flies on the beach while trying to avoid the waves.  After a quick cup of tea I was packed and heading back to the car ...

Clachnaben wild camp

The first decent spell of summer weather and it was off to Clachnaben for a wild camp with my new bivy bag (Rab Ridge Raider) and summer sleeping bag (Vango Venom 300).  I left the house at 7 pm and parked at Glen Dye car park before 8 pm.  The walk started with a walk through a lovely forest before emerging close to Glendye Lodge.  Clachnaben was visible silhouetted against the low sun that was still giving out a lot of warmth.

The path crossed Miller's Bog which was actually quite dry and some trees on the south side of Mount Shade had to be negotiated.  The map showed a path on the north side of the trees but it was pretty invisible so I took a bigger path that went through the middle of the trees.  This was hard work and my (lack of) fitness began to show.

Once past the trees the path was very clearly defined all the way to the top - lots of conservation work making the path dry but slippy in places.  By now I was feeling the pain in both my legs and lungs!  Several stops required!  Thank goodness I was on my own with no witnesses.

I made it to the top still in glorious sunshine but at the tor there was a fierce wind from the south-east.  I searched for a bivy spot and there was only one that was reasonably sheltered and flat.  Once unpacked I had a quick tour for photos at the top before the sun went down.  The sky was a beautiful orange colour and as the sky became a deeper blue I got into my bivy about 10.30 pm in order to keep warm (the temperature went down to 10 degrees overnight).

bad moon rising

The new sleeping bag was proving to be good and very soon I had to take off my second top leaving only a merino t-shirt.  Despite the wired hoop I had no sense of claustrophobia and I was glad to have made a couple of wise purchases.  However, it was strange to feel the bivy slapping my head and legs in the gusty wind.

After the usual poor sleep I was up just after sunrise to get some photos.  Breakfast was water, cereal bar and nuts - no stove on this trip.  Packing was brilliant - I rolled up the bivy bag with the sleeping bag still inside it and it easily went into the rucksack.

sunrise over north sea and aberdeen

I headed south-west on an ugly path that had been gouged out of the hill - the only saving grace was that it avoided most of the peat bogs.  

looking back east to clachnaben

Shortly the bothy at Charr came into view and what an attractive spot - clear stream, bridge, pine trees and a 5-star bothy.  I went inside and hoped I wouldn't wake anybody and thankfully it was empty.  

glen dye and charr bothy

Leaving the bothy I followed the track back along Glen Dye until it met the path I had used the day before near to Glendye Lodge.  Nearing the car I passed about 8 walkers heading out - one said he was going to Mount Battock.  It would be very hot for him!
 

pano looking north and west

Back at the car I finished my water and had a handful of nuts - what a brilliant adventure it had been.

Glenfiddich Lodge

Bank Holiday weekend and a poor weather forecast - no wild camp for me.  However, I've been meaning to visit Glenfiddich Lodge for a long time and the sunny weather left me with no excuses.  The run up through the Cabrach was very enjoyable - a very remote part of the world yet only one hour from Aberdeen.

The car was parked at the Glacks of Balloch and I set off in sunny but cold weather - only 2 degrees with fresh snow in the shade.  The first part of the walk along a landrover track was very wet and resembled a stream more than a track.  No doubt the very wet April had something to do with it.

After just over a mile there is a lovely, granite cottage with an old waterwheel millhouse.  Whilst peering in the window I nearly had a heart attack as 2 resident pigeons decided to leave via the window.  Doh.

The track then crosses a newly constructed "road" made from hardcore.  It is a terrible blot on the landscape and is as wide as an A-class road.  No doubt it is to be used to build the windfarm consisting of 59 turbines at Dorenell.  I find it hard to imagine such a number in this deserted landscape - no doubt the £20 million Sir Christopher Moran Christopher Moran is receiving over 25 years helped him to make up his mind.

"Mr Moran made his first million by the age of 21, only to see his reputation ruined when, in 1982, he was expelled from Lloyd's of London, for "discreditable conduct". He was censured by the Stock Exchange four years later and in 1992 fined $2m (£1.15m) in New York for insider dealing."

www.independent.co.uk

Interesting website here with facts about the windfarm:  http://www.stopdorenellwindfarm.co.uk/

After another mile there is an artificial pond that looks like it is for ducks to breed on in order that they can then be shot.  Very peaceful with a few frogs at the water's edge.  From here the track follows the River Fiddich and the first buildings you see are the dog kennels.  They are splendid granite kennels and I was surprised to see they were occupied - the biggest (male) dog barked the whole time I was in sight.  I hoped this would not alert the keeper as I was hoping to tour the abandoned lodge.  Thankfully he must have been out and not at home in his house by the lodge.

The next buildings were small cottages probably occupied by lodge workers many years ago.  I tried to imagine what life must have been like for the cooks and such like in the depths of winter - hard, no doubt!  The cottages had some excellent, vintage wallpaper.

Next stop was the lodge and after a bit of hesitation I decided to enter via the wide-open door.  The rooms were fascinating with a mixture of old seats (for keepers) and peeling wallpaper.  The weather is making inroads and some parts the floors are rotten.  Lots of glass is broken and in places has been covered with chicken mesh.  This had not stopped the odd pheasant or bird getting in (and not out again).  Some of the rooms were being used to rear birds - I wonder what the original occupiers would think?

Glenfiddich Lodge

On one wall was a bell system with 24 bells on it - no doubt for summonsing a maid with another dram.  One room had a chainsaw and I started to think about The Texas Chainsaw Massacre!  Another seemed to be where the guns would be kept with what looked like gun racks above the huge fire.

You rang, my lord?

Texas Chainsaw Massacre

I left with a feeling of sadness.  Why let a magnificent building fall into ruin when you are worth £200 million?  Why not sell the buildings if you are not interested in them and provide houses for locals?  Probably the same reason Moran has over 50 derelict cottages on his estate. 

Gun room?

Just as I started to walk back I was passed by a very young keeper in his green Landrover and traditional cap.  He waved but didn't stop - I was expecting to have to explain myself.  I stopped for a cup of tea and snack at the side of the pond and enjoyed the warmth of the sun.  If only it had been warmer I would have loved to unpack the bivy bag ...

Good place for a windfarm!

Back at the car and a change of boots after 7 miles of splendid scenery ...